In Italy, where pairing local food and local wine is an art form, there is little argument that the Piedmont region offers more memorable gastronomic experiences than anywhere else in the country.
It’s not just the quality of the food or the superlative chefs that set Piedmont apart in this respect, it’s also the extremely reasonable pricing one can find throughout the region’s trattorie and osterie – plus, of course, the area’s stellar wines.
The Langhe, where Barolo and Barbaresco are produced, is the ideal territory to experience these glories. In an upcoming article, I will focus on Barbaresco, but for now let’s look at some of the impressive dining rooms in Barolo.
Where to eat in Barolo
Osteria Veglio
Emanuel Marengo (left) and Massimo Corso, proprietors at Osteria Veglio. Credit: Tom Hyland
Osteria Veglio, located in a charming building just below the town of La Morra, is among the most typical of all local eateries. Owners/chefs Massimo Corso and Emanuel Marengo present a menu that updates local traditional Piemontese cuisine. While vitello tonnato and tajarin are available, you can also choose from roasted squid with chickpea cream or zucchini flowers with veal sausage for antipasti.
The main course offerings are true comfort foods, ranging from braised veal roast with mashed potatoes to roasted lamb with potatoes and rosemary. The wine list is extremely thorough, emphasising Barolo producers from La Morra yet there are also numerous choices of regional whites such as Arneis, Sauvignon, Nascetta and Chardonnay. And the view of the Barolo vineyards from the terrace is splendid.
Osteria Veglio
Frazione Annunziata, 9
12064 La Morra
Tel: (+39) 0173 509341
Tota Virginia
Riccardo Baltrocco, proprietor of Tota Virginia in Serralunga d’Alba. Credit: Tom Hyland
For a spectacular panorama, reserve an outside table at Tota Virginia in Serralunga d’Alba. This is the little restaurant that could, as proprietor Riccardo Baltrocco, a true gentleman, has made friends with seemingly every producer in the area, who in turn support him.
For a starter, the risotto with carrots, goat cheese and cumin is delicious and distinctive, as is the roast pigeon with Chinese cabbage; the seafood selection here is noteworthy, too. The wine cellar is amazing – the second-largest in the Langhe, with several thousand bottles. The focus is on Barolo, neatly categorised by commune, while the collection of Barbaresco and other Nebbiolo offerings (Ghemme, Gattinara, Roero) is extensive. There are also 13 rooms adjacent to the restaurant, each thoughtfully decorated.
Tota Virginia
Località Baudanà, 69
Serralunga d’Alba
Tel: (+39) 0173 613026
Osteria Tre Case
Osteria Tre Case is a beautifully designed dining space that was once the site of three houses (‘tre case’) just below the castle of Serralunga d’Alba. Brightly lit and airy, the theme here is simplicity, exquisitely rendered by chef, Marco Ruata, especially with the various pasta dishes.
Unlike many other restaurants in the area, a younger crowd frequents here, no doubt due to the reasonable pricing (€15-18 for a main course; €45 for a four-course degustation menu) and relaxed atmosphere. There is a small, but thoughtful wine list, and the service is attentive and enthusiastic.
Osteria Tre Case
Via Roma, 36
Serralunga d’Alba
Tel: (+39) 0173 613290
Langotto
Credit: Langotto
Langotto, open for only a few years, is a hidden gem in the small town of Novello, at the southern reaches of the Barolo zone. Owner/chef Otto Lucà brings a French angle to Langhe cuisine, such as duck foie gras with Nascetta wine (a great starter), as well as lamb with mint Béarnaise sauce, anchovies and courgette.
The handsome dining room features a large picture window offering a marvellous view of this sector of the Langhe.
Langotto Ristorante
Via Giordano, 8
Novello
Tel: (39) 0173 731193
Where to drink in Barolo
Credit: Serralunga Casa Mia
If you’re tired after a long day of visiting wineries or walking the hills and merely want a relaxing meal, try È…. DiVino – La Vineria or Casa Mia. Both are wine bars in Serralunga. The former has an extensive list of wines from around the world, with an assortment of classic local foodstuffs, such as pinsa, a focaccia topped with prosciutto or mortadella.
The latter has a limited offering of favourites, such as insalata russa, along with a small list of wines by the glass and bottle. Proprietor Luigi Vico, a local producer who may also be your server, highlights his own wines, including an impressive Barolo from the nearby Prapò vineyard, and a mouthwatering Moscato d’Asti.
È…. DiVino – La Vineria
Piazza Maria Cappellano, 4
Serralunga d’Alba
Tel: (+39) 338 6087078
Email: edvino.lavineria@gmail.com
Casa Mia
Via XX Settembre 13
Serrralunga d’Alba
Tel: (39) 335 654 7772