The historic Old Redwood Highway, today known as Highway 101, takes you straight north out of San Francisco into Sonoma County wine country. It’s a mostly rural expanse comprising 19 wine appellations, with over 400 wineries dotting its hills and valleys. Bordered on the east by the Mayacamas Mountain range and on the west by the dramatic Pacific coastline, this gorgeous slice of California produces some of the world’s finest wine.
With so many enticing winery options, visitors might feel overwhelmed by choice. That’s why we went to the experts. We asked in-the-know locals about which spots are worth the slot on an itinerary, plus recommendations for noteworthy places to stay and eat nearby.
Pro tip: Most of these wineries’ tasting rooms require reservations, so be sure to plan in advance.
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Robert Young Estate Winery
This six-generation, family-run winery has become a local favorite due to its exquisite wines and Sonoma County cred. Robert Young, the founder, was the first to plant Cabernet Sauvignon in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley, which transformed the family’s prune ranch into a vineyard estate.
“Robert Young arguably has some of the best views,” says Tallia Hart, CEO of the Healdsburg Chamber of Commerce, noting that many of its wines were scored 90 and higher by Wine Enthusiast. “It’s elegant, beautiful and charming at the same time. It is a gem in our area. It’s rare to find one location with almost every varietal made impeccably.”
Opt for the Vineyard Experience ($150 per person) if you have time to spare, which includes a private vineyard tasting and tour of the family ranch. There’s also a Library Experience ($75 per person), which walks guests through four vintages of the winery’s Bordeaux-style Cabernet, Scion.
Where to Eat: Cyrus
There were many disappointed foodies when Cyrus moved out of Healdsburg years ago. But now, the Michelin-star restaurant is back in a new location in Geyserville, just eight miles away from its original outpost. Cyrus offers an uber-gourmet, 15-course dinner event that the New York Times says “wows with a whisper.” It’s open four days a week, with four seatings per night and 12 diners per seating.
Where to Stay: Newtree Ranch
If you’re looking for luxury wellness, you’ll find it in spades at this idyllic oasis outside Healdsburg. It’s secluded, silent (unless you count the sounds of mini-horses and goats) and posh. It also offers “seed-to-table” meals and in-room massages, plus privacy with a capital “P”—the entire place has a maximum occupancy of 12, divided between two private villas.
Iron Horse Vineyards
“This little gem is known to many locals as a place to escape, let go and remember why we all live here,” says Molly Feeney-Kochevar, the head concierge of the restaurant and inn SingleThread and co-owner of Ullage Wines. “Not to be missed if you enjoy sparkling and Pinot.”
With an Old West feel thanks to its redwood structures, split-rail fences that surround the property and the occasional haystack, you might not initially think “bubbles” on arrival. But don’t be fooled by the rustic setting. Iron Horse is known for its sparkling wines made using the méthode Champenoise—they’ve been served at the White House since 1985.
Iron Horse offers many effervescent options, including Blanc de Noirs and a Wedding Cuvée. You can enjoy them in the winery’s outdoor tasting room, which offers dramatic hilltop views of Mount St. Helena and acres upon acres of grapevines.
Where to Eat: Fern Bar
Besides having one of the most fabulous interiors around (yes, with plenty of ferns), this appropriately titled restaurant and bar offers a respite to the wine lover with its extensive list of “garden-to-glass” cocktails. Drinks inspired by the 1920s and 30s, like Vieux Carré and Bee’s Knees, are accompanied by classic fare with a twist, like Spam and eggs with kimchi or aged beef dumplings with salted prune and chilie jam. Fern Bar is nestled in the Barlow, Sebastopol’s popular shopping and dining destination.
Where to Stay: Farmhouse Inn
Forestville’s Farmhouse Inn boasts 52 rustic chic bungalows, rooms, suites, a Michelin-starred restaurant, an aptly-named “Wellness Barn” (it’s a spa) and vineyards all around. Book a barn suite decked out in modern farmhouse decor, a private country cottage set on a picturesque walking path or a farmhouse room with a bed-and-breakfast vibe.
Reeve Wines
Husband-and-wife team Noah and Kelly Dorrance started Dry Creek Valley’s Reeve in 2016. Noah had previously co-founded the wildly successful Banshee Wines in 2008, and like Banshee, Reeve (named for their son) has proven to be a smashing success. Its small-production, elegant wines and modern rustic ambiance create an inviting, laidback environment to sip.
Of particular note are Reeve’s three Rieslings, each from a different vineyard in Anderson Valley near the Pacific Ocean. You may want to taste the 2018 Wendling Vineyard North Slope Pinot Noir—Wine Enthusiast gave it a 96-point score.
“It is such a cool winery, and I love taking my friends and family there, especially for the pizza nights,” says Circe Sher, co-founder of Sonoma County’s Piazza Hospitality.
Where to Eat: Guiso Latin Fusion
Chef and owner Carlos Mojica credits his mother Margarita as his inspiration to become a chef, and his Latin fusion restaurant in downtown Healdsburg does her justice with its mix of Caribbean and South and Central American cuisine. Go for dishes like Caribbean-style paella and pupusas, which are corn tortillas filled with vegetables or pork and cheese.
Where to Stay: Reeve Villa and Farmstay
Extend your wine-tasting experience by spending a night at the on-site villa designed by the Dorrances. This luxury four-bedroom villa is set amidst a rustic vineyard environment just outside Healdsburg. To tack on an authentic Sonoma County experience, a farm-stay element can be added, which includes feeding animals and harvesting chicken eggs.
Repris Wines
Repris delivers an unforgettable tasting experience—its Moon Mountain Experience ($100 per person) includes a guided ATV tour to the top of Moon Mountain to taste under the trees and stroll through the vineyards, glass in hand. Afterward, guests explore some of California’s oldest wine caves, followed by a flight of Repris wine and small bites from an overflowing charcuterie board.
“Their winemaker, Erich Bradley, crafts wines that uphold a tradition dating back to the 1880s, when Cabernet Sauvignon was first planted on the mountain,” Hart raves.
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Where to Eat: Folktable
This Sonoma eatery has a Bib Gourmand designation from the Michelin Guide, no doubt thanks to executive chef Casey Thompson, a former Top Chef contestant known for micro-seasonal, farm-to-table cuisine. Located in Cornerstone Sonoma, an outdoor marketplace filled with art galleries and antique shops, it’s gained popularity for inventive fare like crispy sunchokes served with anchovy cream and its ground brisket burger crowned with smoky bacon and melted bacon fat onions.
Where to Stay: MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa
The 64-room hotel is close to Sonoma Plaza and has been a local favorite for over 125 years. Originally a family estate, it has recently undergone a multimillion-dollar renovation and is now known for its modern yet classic wine country charm. Don’t forget to stop by The Bar at The MacArthur, a welcoming space decorated in rich jewel tones and filled with dark wood finishes. It’s ideal for a late-night cocktail like the FiggyStardust, which marries whiskey with pear brandy, the bittersweet liqueur Bruto Americano and a spiced fig-raspberry syrup. Bonus: Save room for the warm chocolate chip cookies provided as part of the turndown service.
Domaine de la Rivière
Domaine de la Riviere is a family-owned and operated winery in the Russian River Valley. Although it’s still relatively new (its first vintage was released in 2020), the operation has gained attention for top-quality Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and rosé. Winemaker Kale Anderson is a Sonoma County native who has been instrumental in the winery’s success; it’s won several accolades, including three Double Gold Awards in the 2023 San Francisco Wine Competition for the winery’s 2019 Next Door Chardonnay, 2019 Two Forces Pinot Noir and 2019 Middle Reach Vineyards Pinot Noir.
Paul Coker, director of beverage at Montage Healdsburg, is a big fan. “As we were getting in the car, after our first visit, my wife turned to me and said, ‘Well, that sure over-delivered!’ Having been back twice since that day, the trend continues,” Coker says. “They blend the experience of tasting their wines with an outpouring of graciousness and hospitality, reminiscent of old-world tastings in family homes.”
Where to Eat: Barndiva
This Healdsberg spot has snagged a Michelin star each of the last three years with its prix fixe dinner menu, available from Wednesday to Sunday, and a popular weekend brunch. The cuisine here can be described as modern country, with farm-to-table and seasonal dishes like black cod with caramelized salsify, clams and matsutake mushrooms and a raw diver scallop tartare topped with crispy jamón, jalapeños and cucumber. We suggest snagging a seat in the outdoor garden, which is shaded beneath towering black walnut trees.
Where to Stay: Montage Healdsburg
Offering 130 bungalows (some designed to look like treehouses) and suites immersed in the trees and vineyards of Alexander Valley, Montage has been a super hit since its opening in 2020. Come for the contemporary, environmentally-conscious design, stay for the yoga classes that take place in the vineyards.
Vérité Winery
“Vérité’s extraordinary reds and wonderful hospitality are two reasons I continue sending guests their way,” says Feeney-Kochevar. “They never fall short or disappoint.”
Vérité’s French vigneron Pierre Seillan uses a micro-cru approach to winemaking, which led him to plant grapes in the Alexander Valley, Bennett Valley, Knights Valley and Chalk Hill AVAs. This has enabled him to select fruit grown in 30 different soil types to craft his Bordeaux-inspired blends. Today, he works alongside daughter Hélène, who is now the assistant winemaker. The father-daughter team recently unveiled a new state-of-the-art winery and chateau tasting room in Chalk Hill.
The Estate Tasting experience ($200 per person) is a great introduction to the winery’s portfolio, and includes sips of the three current vintages and one library vintage. Alternatively, if you’re looking for an even more immersive experience, the Library Wine and Food Pairing experience ($450 per person) is a three-course, six-wine event that features seasonal dishes made by the winery’s in-house chef.
Where to Eat: Valette
Brothers Dustin Valette and Aaron Garzini started this lauded eatery in 2015 in the Healdsburg building that once housed their great-grandfather’s bakery. It quickly became a hit with locals and critics alike, who come for the rustic setting and upscale California fare like dayboat scallops en croute with leeks, fennel, caviar and rich Champagne beurre blanc.
Where to Stay: The Madrona Hotel
The historic and iconic Madrona, a 24-room, 1881 estate outside of Healdsburg, reopened in 2022 with a glamorous, eclectic, and vintage vibe. Each unit on the property boasts an individual design—no two are identical. Stay in the hilltop mansion, where many rooms offer views of the valley below, or the property’s original carriage house, now converted to studio suites with equestrian-inspired decor. Need more privacy? Book one of the secluded, distinctive bungalows scattered on the edges of the hotel’s eight acres.
B. Wise Vineyards
When asked about her favorite Sonoma County wineries, Alexis Kandanes, general manager of Bricoleur Vineyards in Windsor, says, “Of course, Bricoleur is my favorite, but the cave tour at B. Wise is something you don’t want to miss. It’s truly a surprising and delightful experience.”
Located in the Moon Mountain District, the winery’s sprawling system of fermenting and aging tunnels allows for intimate tasting spaces in its multiple alcoves. Expect dramatic barrel-vaulted ceilings and eclectic vintage decor that evokes everything from 1920s Paris to the Wild West. Above ground, the outdoor terrace offers sweeping views of the estate’s vineyards. There is also a tasting room in Kenwood, located just 20 minutes from downtown Sonoma.
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Where to Eat: Salt & Stone
Located on the Sonoma Highway in Kenwood, Salt & Stone is known for seafood like oysters Rockefeller and Dungeness crab cakes with scallion vinaigrette. But don’t sleep on carnivorous fare like the steak tartare anointed with 25-year sherry vinegar and a raw quail egg. If you can, sit outside—the lighted patio, which features a well-manicured pond covered in water lilies, is an ideal spot for passing a leisurely evening.
Where to Stay: Hotel Les Mars
This hotel is a part of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux group. It features French chateau-style design, antique furnishings that date to the 17th and 18th centuries and an intimate atmosphere with just 16 rooms. Plus, the boutique hotel offers a daily complimentary wine tasting in the lobby.
The Donum Estate
The Donum Estate is a true marriage of wine and art. We mean that in a literal sense: The sprawling, modern estate is home to more than 50 sculptures, including large-scale, open-air works by noted artists such as Ai Weiwei, Yayoi Kusama, Keith Haring and Yue Minjun. It’s one of the largest accessible private collections in the world.
As far as wine goes, there are several choices—including the Carneros Experience ($100 per person), an hourlong exploration of offerings from the winery’s Carneros estate, which is set between Napa and Sonoma counties, and features Donum’s highly acclaimed Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. (Wine Enthusiast awarded 95 points to their 2019 Estate Pinot Noir and named it a Cellar Selection.) The event also includes a tour of the culinary garden and sculpture collection. There’s also the Culinary Experience ($299 a person), which features a communal two-course lunch and wine tasting, plus a walking tour of the estate’s lavender field and rose and culinary gardens.
“Put this at the top of your list if you want a mind-blowing experience,” says Feeney-Kochevar. “The property, the art, the wines and the hospitality speak for themselves.”
Where to Eat: Santé Restaurant
Located in the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn, Santé offers modern California fare such as koji-marinated quail and wild black cod with tomato sugo, plus brunch items like lemon cottage cheese pancakes. Chef Jared Reeves uses local and sustainable produce to complement the wine list, which features both local and international selections.
Where to Stay: Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa
The historic five-star Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn is a must for golf obsessives, with easy access to championship golf at the nearby Sonoma Golf Club. After 18 holes, relax in the property’s geothermal mineral pools and take in some farm-to-table dining. End the night in one of the suites, many of which feature four-poster king beds and wood-burning fireplaces.
Lambert Bridge
The cozy, welcoming Lambert Bridge Winery is just past the Lambert Bridge in Dry Creek Valley. Don’t miss its elevated take on the picnic basket, packed with a curated selection of cheeses, charcuterie and other provisions, which guests can enjoy at picnic tables throughout the property’s well-maintained gardens. These gardens play host to non-stop events throughout the year, including monthly summer “sundowners”—aka lively sunset happy hours featuring wood-fired pizzas.
More formal tasting opportunities are also on offer, including the Barrel Room Tasting Experience ($60 per person), a seated 90-minute tasting of four member-exclusive wines, and the Cellar Room Tasting Experience ($125 per person), which guides guests through five limited-release wines paired with local cheese and charcuterie.
“It’s got a great vibe with high-end wine that doesn’t feel stodgy, but can definitely rival our Napa neighbor,” says Hart. “Aesthetically pleasing to the eye, a warm environment and friendly staff make it a top spot for me.”
Where to Eat: Little Saint’s Second Story
Located upstairs from Little Saint, an all-day cafe with an exclusively plant-based menu, Second Story is an elevated vegan prix fixe spot with an impressive wine and cocktail program. The greenhouse-inspired space is airy but cozy, with wall-length glass windows and a vaulted ceiling lined with wooden beams. Dishes change constantly, but executive chef Stu Stalker—formerly of Noma in Copenhagen—whips up fare like celery root pithivier with preserved truffles and Danish aebleskiver pancakes with a carrot-yeast glaze and fennel flowers.
Where to Stay: Hotel Healdsburg
Located right off the historic Healdsburg Square, steps away from Michelin-starred restaurants, open-door fine wine tasting rooms, art galleries and eclectic boutique shopping, Hotel Healdsburg offers elegant rooms and a notable spa. Be sure to leave time to luxuriate in one of the chaise lounges at the sixty-foot garden pool, which is set in a garden of olive and fig trees, boxwoods, hydrangeas and roses.
Recommended Tasting Rooms
Many wineries have in-town tasting rooms in Sonoma and Healdsburg, making it convenient for visitors to sample their wines without having to drive around. Additionally, some winemakers without wineries use tasting rooms as their primary way to reach guests. Here are some favorites.
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Portalupi
“Tim and Jane are rockstars and have a fun downtown tasting room. They take a ‘Cal-Ital’ approach where they celebrate a California lifestyle with an Italian influence to honor their families and the original origin of their varietals. They collaborate with other Healdsburg locals for fun pop-ups and have one of the best charcuterie boards in town!” —Tallia Hart
Bloodroot
“Whenever we walk into Bloodroot near the Healdsburg Square, I can see the eyes of their tasting room manager, Jess, light up. Not only are the wines whimsical and delicious, but there is always something fun being released. The vibe is cool and relaxed, and we’re always sure to run into friends with the same idea of relaxing with great wine and great music.” —Paul Coker
Lioco
“I have loved the wines at Lioco for many years and really appreciate that they keep lesser-known varieties alive and thriving. Gruner Veltliner, Carignan and Valdiguie are just some of the wines that fill out their diverse portfolio, in addition to the beautifully expressive Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that really tell a story with a sense of place. It’s not uncommon to find proprietors Matt and Sara in the Healdsburg tasting room, playing records that match the vibrancy of the wines and creating an infectiously fun atmosphere where you can truly lose track of time.” —Alexis Kandanes
Leo Steen Wines
“When I think of local gems, Leo Steen Wines immediately comes to mind. Leo is now crafting some of the most creative and delicious wines around; as one of the few California producers to specialize in Chenin Blanc, his wines are particular standouts. It’s especially fitting since [the label’s] last name, Steen, is a synonym for Chenin Blanc in South Africa.” —Circe Sher
Published: December 12, 2023
