Monday, June 3, 3:15pm
I take another swim post-sandwich. My abandon in the face of digestion terrifies the Italians around me. Then I pack up and begin the short drive along the coast to the seaside town of Pescara.
Traffic’s not terrible, but parking is, as is inevitable in cities that were built before cars, but it works out as I’m stepping out of the car just in time for aperitivo. I had planned to make a beeline for an old favorite, Don Gennaro 1918, in particular because I heard the team there had come up with an ingenious way to help familiarize guests with their incredible collection of regional liqueurs. By mixing them with beer or wine to create a drink called a mischiati, they’re doing the laudable work of giving the people what they want while also highlighting these oft-overlooked, exquisite expressions of local culture.
I deviate, however, because my friend Sarah Cicolini—the internationally acclaimed chef of Roman restaurants Santopalato and Avanvera who is originally from Abruzzo—has directed me toward a new wine bar called Glicine.
They’re still setting up their seating when I wander in, but they don’t mind me taking the time to admire their careful curation of small producers from all over the world. The sparkling collection is tempting, though I doubt they’ll pop a fresh bottle of one of the grower Champagnes I’m eyeing just for me. They surprise me, then, when they start service and seem not just willing but in fact pleased when I make my ask. It’s always a great sign when wine people are excited to share their bounty, and their joy.
