Savoie is a footnote in wine most guides, often relegated to “other” French wine regions that merit little more than brief mentions after exhaustive examinations of Bordeaux and Burgundy, the Rhône and the Loire, and other areas on the beaten path.
But that may be changing as more wine lovers discover the delights of this Alpine region — Savoy in English — especially its light yet distinctive and affordable white wines.
One of them is the charming 2020 Vin de Savoie Apremont “Cuvée Gastronomie” from Jean Perrier & Fils. Provided you don’t drink it too cold, which will obscure the tastes, it’s as crisp and delightful as any light French whites you’ll come across.
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The wine is from the Apremont subregion of Savoie, a small, mountainous appellation in eastern France bordering Switzerland. The grape is Jacquère, the most common variety here, and Jean Perrier ferments and ages it in stainless steel tanks.
The result is a fresh, delicate, and nuanced wine with a modest 11.5 percent ABV. Pale straw in color, the aromas and tastes evoke green apple with hints of orange and lime as well as subtle notes of flowers, herbs, and wet stone.
This is a wonderful aperitif wine that would also pair well with lighter fish and shellfish as well as raclette, the melted cheese dish that is popular in the French Alps. The Perrier family has been making wine here since 1853 and now farms about 150 acres.
Their Apremont reminds me of summer in its taste and texture, which is not a bad thought as we enter the depths of winter. At around $13, it’s also a phenomenal value to enjoy now and throughout the year.