North Carolina is home to over 200 wineries and six American Viticultural Areas (AVAs)—and counting. While many locals know there is great wine to be had here, it remains a best-kept secret to the rest of the world.
As easily as we can file North Carolina under “up-and-coming” wine region, we can also trace the roots of wine as far back as the history of the United States goes.
Early explorers were intrigued by the wild Muscadine vines growing on the shore of the Outer Banks, and the promise of wine was a major incentive for colonizing the Southeast in the first place. Skip to the late 19th and 20th century and the most commercially successful wine was being made here—Virginia Dare, it was called, made from red, white and sparkling Muscadine.
Had it not been for Prohibition, North Carolina might be today’s most poorly kept secret.
In the 1970s, Vitis vinifera, the grapevine from which European wine is made, was successfully planted. Today, a handful of winemakers are adding to that regional repertoire many non-vinifera varieties for their ability to grow without much (or any) chemical treatment.
From Cabernet to Carlos, there is a dazzling array of wine made here, a result of the questions—and their time-consuming answers—that must be asked in order to establish regional identity.
Sarah Bowman, viticulture instructor at Surry Community College, has noticed that the trend towards sustainable varietals has officially arrived in North Carolina. “[We’ve] learned along the way that it’s not getting any easier to grow grapes,” says Bowman. “So, we want to find ways to make it easier on ourselves and produce products that we feel good about.”
Students at Surry Community College make wine through their label, Surry Cellars, and the growth of the program has remained at the geographical and spiritual heart of the local wine industry.
Winemakers looking to find more sustainable ways of making wine are turning to interspecific hybrids like Traminette and Seyval Blanc, while others are embracing the regional tradition of fruit wine and experimenting with Muscadine, a grape native to the southeast, for its ability to make dry and sparkling styles.
But classic, European styles thrive here, too. Many winemakers are excited about Petit Manseng for its ability to maintain acidity and low sugar levels in warmer temperatures. Tannat, Petit Verdot, Vermentino and Cabernet Franc are other vinifera varieties that do well here.
North Carolina can be divided into three main regions: the Blue Ridge Mountains in the west, the Piedmont region in the middle and the Coastal Plain, which flattens out toward the Atlantic Ocean. This topography is a result of long-term erosion of the Blue Ridge Mountains which are a part of the Appalachian Mountains, one of the oldest mountain ranges in the world. The result is the meeting of a cool climate and a warm climate, with many microclimates in between.
The state’s six AVAs can all be found in the mountains or the Piedmont region, but there are many wineries making excellent wine outside of these federally recognized boundaries.
The Mountain Wineries
The western part of North Carolina boasts a very different climate than the rest of the state. Nestled in the Blue Ridge Mountains, the regions here are cooler and benefit from elevation. There are three AVAs in western North Carolina, with one still in review: Tryon Foothills AVA.
Upper Hiwassee Highlands AVA is the southwesternmost point and is shared by bordering Georgia. The area is surrounded by high, rugged elevations, but contains gentler slopes and warmer temperatures for grape growing within its bounds. Even so, some summers remain cool throughout the growing season and this can be a challenge.
Appalachian High Country AVA is in the northwest part of the state and is shared by bordering Tennessee and Virginia. Within the AVA, vines are planted at elevations between 2,290 and 4,630 feet, and the climate is cool with a shorter growing season than any other AVA.
The Crest of the Blue Ridge Henderson County AVA is just south of Asheville, straddling the Eastern Continental Divide. The AVA enjoys cool temperatures and protection from bad weather from the surrounding mountains.
Andrews, North Carolina
In the Upper Hiwassee Highlands AVA, FernCrest Winery is owned by plant lovers Kurt and Jan Olsen. Their Fiddlehead Red, which just won double gold at the 2024 North Carolina Wine Competition is made from Cabernet Franc, Mourvedre and Arandell. They have a small vineyard where they grow Chardonel, Vidal Blanc and Cynthiana, the local name given to Norton. Visit their tasting room in quaint, downtown Andrews to pair their wines with locally made cheeses, jams, fermented foods, and art.
Flat Rock, North Carolina
Forty minutes south of Asheville, Marked Tree Vineyards is part of the Crest of the Blue Ridge AVA. “Their sight is really impressive,” says Jeremy Stamps, sommelier and owner of The Wisdom Table in Elkin. “It’s right on a fault line so they have a really interesting soil composite and what they’re growing really fits and makes sense. Their Vidal Blanc, their Chardonel, their Lemberger—it’s just the right grape and the right place.”
The winery offers table service inside or on their expansive patio overlooking the vineyard, where you can often catch a breathtaking sunset. If you’re a bubbles-everyday-of-the-week kind of person, be sure to try Bubble Swarm, a sparkling Méthode Champenoise made from Vidal Blanc.
Tryon, North Carolina
In the highly anticipated Tryon Foothills AVA, which is still in review, Overmountain Vineyards is a flourishing farm and vineyard on a certified segment of the Overmountain Victory Trail, where a pivotal Revolutionary War militia known as the Overmountain Men, crossed through in 1780. “It’s like an oasis,” says Brianna Burns, executive director of the North Carolina Wine and Grape Council. “It’s a really beautiful, almost California-esque place to hang out and have great wine.”
“Because we’re a small production winery, we can take the time to produce the highest quality grapes in the vineyard and then in the winery,” says Sofia Lilly, one half of the father-daughter duo running the operation. Their wines are complex, dry styles made from five grapes grown on site: Petit Manseng, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Their classic approach to winemaking is reflected in their approach to hospitality—visitors can expect a seated tasting of wines poured in the correct glass, with education and guidance from staff.
Where to Eat and Sleep
If you’re staying a while, don’t miss the fine American cuisine of Chef Steven Lash at Sage, or perhaps the only fully gluten-free restaurant in the South: The Crown. And be sure to check out The Lodge Nantahala River for cozy, Appalachian hospitality.
Asheville and Surrounding
In and around the city of Asheville, there are a handful of wineries within a half-hour drive that aren’t located in an AVA but are making great wine.
Asheville, North Carolina
Plēb’s tasting room and winery are in the River Arts District of Asheville, a creative hub along the French Broad River, with plenty of studios, gallerys, and dining within walking distance. Their vineyards, which are further north, are farmed organically and biodynamically. Chris Denesha, co-owner and winemaker is in his twelfth season in North Carolina and is a notorious envelope pusher for what must be grown for a sustainable future. Sitting down to a tasting at Plēb is like entering a lab of what North Carolina wine might one day look like. Pét-nat lovers, you will never be bored here, and don’t sleep on the still Foundy Rosé made from Jacquez and Cabernet Franc.
Old Fort, North Carolina
Michael and Abi McGeary recently opened Euda Wine, an urban winery in downtown Old Fort, just 30 minutes east of Asheville—you can’t miss the brightly painted yellow tasting room and inviting picnic tables out front. Winemaker Michael McGeary brings a wealth of knowledge from working in Napa, but it wasn’t until he spent time working in Switzerland that his eyes were opened to all of the possibilities beyond vinifera varieties, and he returned home to start his winery. He partners with local growers to make a delicious menu of sparkling and still dry wines that are sure to get you excited about the region. Be sure to try the sparkling Traminette, with subtle floral notes, and the Carbonic Chambourcin, destined to be admired by Beaujolais lovers everywhere.
Leicester, North Carolina
In Leicester, 30 minutes northwest of Asheville, Addison Farms has been tending vines since 2009, when Jeff and Dianne Frisbee turned the farm that has been in their family since 1937 from a cattle ranch to a vineyard. Winemakers Matt Duerstock and Alex Kendall just released two bangers not to be missed: Bottle Rocket, a pét-nat made from Petit Manseng and Jovis, a chillable red made from Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc that embodies the essence of glou-glou while still maintaining complexity. For the full effect, have a seat on their shaded patio and look over the rolling hills lined with vines.
Where to Eat and Sleep
Spend a few days to check out these wineries, and stay at The Windsor Boutique Hotel or The AC Hotel downtown.
For dinner try Cúrate, a Spanish restaurant, market and bakery with world-class food in a casual atmosphere or Golden Pineapple for a neighborhood vibe with great food and cocktails.
The Piedmont Region
The Piedmont, which is French for “foot of the mountain” is in the center of the state, in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The Piedmont region is home to three AVAs:
The Yadkin Valley AVA, established in 2003, was the first in the state. Including its sub-appellation, Swan Creek AVA, it is home to 51 wineries. The Yadkin Valley enjoys a warmer climate than neighboring mountain regions, as well as rolling hills with elevations ranging from 800 to 1,600 feet, and mineral-rich, red clay topsoils.
Swan Creek AVA, which overlaps with the southern part of the Yadkin Valley AVA, is distinguished by a slightly cooler climate and the nearby Brushy Mountains, which help to block rainfall.
The Haw River Valley AVA sits just east of the Yadkin Valley and lies on the Carolina Slate Belt, formed from tectonic movements of the North American and African continental plates.
Should you choose to go into the heart of the Yadkin Valley, you’ll find a classic wine country experience. You could spend a day visiting a few historic, neighboring wineries or spend several making your way through the entire region.
“They’re all very different experiences and honestly there’s not bad wine being made down there,” says Jeremy Stamps. “They’re so close together that it’s an easy drive, and you can hit up a lot of them and understand North Carolina wine pretty quickly.”
Hamptonville, North Carolina
Located in the Swan Creek AVA, owners Chuck and Jamey Johnson have been making wine since 2008. They make traditional dry wines from classic varietals like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. They also make wine outside the box—their Seyval Blanc is a must-try for Sauvignon Blanc lovers, and their oak-aged Chambourcin is a unique approach to a hybrid that does exceptionally well in the Piedmont climate. Visit on the weekends to pair your wine with rotating local food trucks.
In 2011 they also opened Windsor Run Cellars just down the road, where you can find adventurous fortified wines like Ratafia, a blend of Traminette Brandy and Traminette grape juice with spicy pear and honeysuckle aromas.
Ronda, North Carolina
Just down the road, Piccione Vineyards opened in 2010. Dr. William Piccione was inspired by his grandfather’s love for winemaking and with roots in Sicily, the winery continues to honor Italian tradition in rural North Carolina. Some of their stellar standouts include a rosato made from Sagrantino, as well as Ovina, a white blend made from Vermentino and Pinot Grigio.
Some years, viticulturist Eric Steinbicher chooses to add a bit of that Sagrantino rosé into the blend. “In 2022, that was a pretty diluted year. We had a lot of rain so the fruit character wasn’t as obvious on the mid-palate,” says Steinbicher. “So, we ended up putting a little bit of rosé of Sagrantino in there to see if that would help with the aromas and it changed the blend completely.” Their tasting room is designed after a classic Italian villa, and once you grab a glass of wine, head out to the patio to look over their vineyards; you’ll be reminded of the Tuscan countryside in more ways than one.
Dobson, North Carolina
For Jeremy Stamps, the best wineries in the Yadkin Valley are the ones that remain consistent through variable weather. “Stony Knoll grows some of the best fruit in Yadkin Valley,” he says. “It’s always the best looking Chambourcin, the best looking Chardonnay, and Viognier, which is super fickle.”
Stony Knoll is one of the earlier wineries in the Yadkin Valley, and the farm has been in the family for over 100 years. Purchased in 1896, the family grew tobacco, like most people in the region until the 1980s, when their land was converted to cattle. Today the tasting room serves outstanding classically made wine from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.
The Stony Knoll Wine Lodge, located on the property, is a renovated 19th century log home that you can book for your stay. Walk across the street from the tasting room and you’re home!
Elkin, North Carolina
Patrick and Wendy McNabb’s proclivity for fun in winemaking is infectious. They purchased the vineyard in 2022, feeling called to the land that was already running organically. From their strawberry wine to their Frontenac, the tasting room is a place where you will encounter as much regional tradition in winemaking as you will curiosity and hope for the future of viticulture. Sweet to dry styles, beers, ciders and four types of Muscadine are on their menu.
Patrick is the creative to Wendy’s science nerd, and the two involve the community as much as they can, from actually making wine to donating proceeds of their wines to a variety of causes. Keep in mind that the tasting room is closed December and January. When it opens back up in February, the doors are open to tours, wine tastings, and wine blending parties.
Siler City, North Carolina
FireClay Cellars is in the Haw River Valley AVA, an hour west of Raleigh in Siler City. The name is an homage to the bright red clay found in their vineyard. Owned by family members Erik Mitran and his parents, Andrei and Sue Mitran, they’ve also added mead and cider to their portfolio. “They do a Chambourcin rosé that is magenta and delicious,” says Burns. Chardonnay lovers will be interested to try their Chardonel, a French hybrid with Chardonnay parentage, of which FireClay has an oaked and an unoaked style. At the rustic-modern tasting room, don’t miss the locally renowned Celebrity Dairy Goat Cheese along with other accouterments.
Where to Eat and Sleep
For dinner, find your way to Stamps’ restaurant The Wisdom Table in downtown Elkin, known as a sort of Cheers for the people working in the wine industry, and home to a rotating menu and bottle list. There are many great options for lodging in the area, but be sure to scope out the Six28 House Bed & Breakfast or Three Trails Apartments if you prefer to waddle home after dinner and a bottle.
The Coastal Plains
The coastal region of North Carolina has many wineries, but no federally established viticultural areas. Wineries tend to be spread out, and the climate is very different from the Piedmont. Here the soil is sandy, the wind blows much harder, and some years the vines find themselves in the path of tropical storms and hurricanes.
Jarvisburg, North Carolina
On your way to the Outer Banks, you’ll pass a winery just a few miles from the shore, whose reputation has made it pretty far inland. Sanctuary Vineyards is a 28-acre family farm where John Wright grows 15 vinifera varieties and with winemaker George Butler, crafts boutique wines for the diverse clientele that pass through on their way to the Outer Banks. Their Albariño, The Pearl, is famous in North Carolina.
“If you look across the ocean,” says Butler, “the birthplace of Albariño, the coast of Spain and Portugal is almost directly across from us.” He takes a simple straightforward approach to the fruit, allowing the fruit to speak for itself.
Where to Eat and Sleep
Keep on going to Kill Devil Hills and grab a room at Shutters On The Banks for clean, oceanfront rooms with balconies. Get the fourth-floor rooms for the best views. For dinner, head to Kill Devil Grill for some of the best food in the area. Crab cake, wings, ribs, oh my!
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Published: August 16, 2024