The combination of a beer and a shot is nothing new. But a survey of newly opened bars across the U.S. shows that what once was a cheap dive bar call or a bartender’s handshake is now commonplace on menus, and seeing a resurgence among all kinds of drinkers.
While there are plenty of places serving the typical whiskey and a lager, today’s newly conceived boilermakers are taking cues from larger trends in bar design—and vibe—in step with the rise of what the Punch team has dubbed The Regular Bar. These are the kind of places that eschew an immersive theme or the lab-like technology now employed by many of the world’s top bars in favor of something a little more laid-back. Not quite dives, but certainly not establishments that take themselves as seriously as their high-concept contemporaries, these bars serve well-executed takes on a familiar roster of classic cocktails within a relaxed atmosphere. In other words, they’re Regular Bars, in the best way. And what do you drink at a regular ol’ bar? A souped-up beer-and-a-shot is a good place to start.
To understand what the modern boilermaker looks like, we scoured menus from a number of bars that have opened within the past three years. Here’s what they’re serving.
From the second coming of the Bullshot (a “stocktail”) to the modern-day culinary cocktail to extra-fussy edible garnishes, the line between drinks and food has perhaps never been more blurry. The same is true in boilermakers. At New York’s Superbueno, for example, the Sopa del Día is not a soup special; it’s the bar’s sleeper-hit serve of Monopolio beer, a shot of raicilla and a sidecar of hot birria broth. At newly opened Cobra, in Columbus, Ohio, broth also plays a part in one of six on-menu boilermakers. Consisting of a shot of Dewar’s White Label and a few ounces of a savory liquid inspired by Maruchan Ramen packets (dried shiitake, soy, scallions and other seasonings), the “Broth Back” is the most popular of the bunch, a surprising, yet nostalgic pairing. “Our kitchen is the last fresh-food option open in Columbus most nights, so naturally we are the last stop for people having a night out and industry folk,” according to Alex Chien, Kayla LeRoy and David Yee, who make up the bar team. Late nights plus an industry-heavy crowd mean lots of boilermakers. “A lot of the focus of our pairings is to highlight spirits we love and to offer our takes on popular pairings through the scope of being an Asian American bar.”
Once also an off-menu call, the 50/50 shot has made its way into the boilermaker, too. At Capri Club in Los Angeles, for example, the sole on-menu boilermaker combines an ice-cold mug of Peroni and a Ferrari shot. (While the bartender’s handshake is typically fernet and Campari, Capri Club trades the latter ingredient for its house red-bitter blend, a mix of five liqueurs.) In Oakland, California, the newly opened Tallboy offers a range of “Craft Cheekies”—mini cocktails, like a Bamboo or Boulevardier, alongside 50/50s like the Mezzymeister (mezcal and Jägermeister) or the CIA (“Cynar in Aperol”). At Take Two in Portland, Oregon, a 50/50 fernet and Borghetti shot—which co-owner Heather Wallberg says “puts a little pep in your step”—can be washed down with “Bud Heavy,” a cheeky name for the regular Budweiser (as opposed to Bud Light).
The menu at Dear Sandy in Portland, Oregon, has a dedicated Boilermakers section featuring four combinations. There’s the Climbing Buddy (which pokes fun at “the quintessential Portland archetype” who climbs, backpacks and “loves an IPA and a good whiskey,” according to owner Kate Marotta) and the Tucson Tooter, a high-low mix of AriZona Hard Tea and mezcal. But the most popular pairing is the most classic: Miller High Life and Old Crow bourbon. (Meanwhile, bars like Washington, D.C.’s Tallboy, not to be mistaken for the aforementioned Oakland bar, serve beer and whiskey with a twist: a bonus scratch-off card.) Room for Improvement, in Portland, Maine, offers similarly simple boilermakers. Any of their bottled beers can come with a shot of tequila, bourbon, Cynar or Aperol, and owner Arvid Brown says that the most popular combination is Pacifico with tequila. But all are crowd-pleasers, especially because the shots are served in mini boot-shaped glasses, begging for a toast. According to Brown, “We call a ‘cheers’ with them ‘playing footsies’ or sometimes ‘knocking boots.’”
