Gardening season is in full swing, and you may have questions. To ask one, simply go to the OSU Extension website, type it in and include the county where you live. A photo is very helpful.
A: I purchased 20 1-gallon “Ripple” azaleas in late March 2023. Due to an ongoing landscaping project, I was not able to plant them until last weekend (June 17). I used about 80% blended soil (50% sandy loam, 25% mushroom compost, 25% garden mulch) and 20% native clay soil. I also mixed 7/8 cup of biotome-equivalent (4-3-3) transplanting fertilizer into the bottom of the hole and sprinkled 1/8 cup on top of the soil after planting.
The top of the root ball is about 1.5 inches above the soil level, and I added mulch afterwards, not within a couple of inches of the plant’s stem though. I tamped down the soil relatively firmly with my hands, and I watered them in thoroughly.
I have been watering every two to three days. It has been a week, and the plant leaves are turning red/purple/brown on all 20 plants, primarily in the center of the plants.
They were very rootbound, and I tried to break up the roots a bit, although I don’t know if I did it enough. I read that overwatering can cause root rot, evidenced by leaf discoloration. Is this what is happening with my azaleas? I also just read that you are not supposed to use mushroom compost with azaleas and am wondering if that is the cause of the issues I see.
Is there anything I can do to fix this? Also, for plants this size (about 10-12 inches across and maybe 8-10 inches high), how much water should I be giving it (e.g., half gallon), and on what frequency (e.g., twice weekly)?
Additionally, the azaleas are planted within approximately 50-60 feet of three mature black walnut trees.
Could it be juglone that is causing the leaf discoloration and drop? Between being rootbound, potential root rot, the mushroom compost and the Black Walnut trees, I haven’t been able to match up any of these problems specifically with the red/purple/brown leaves. – Multnomah County
A: You are right, there could be several things going on from the mushroom compost to the black walnut neighbors.
You were right to break up the roots, but one of the reasons to do that is so they can reach out to the soil around themselves. The soil in your picture looks very gray and rocky. Did you do a soil test? It might be worth it to do one now. The roots will not just stay in the hole you dug. If they do the plant will not thrive. Plants need to be planted in the soil they are most suited to.
The plants need about an inch of water a week, a little more if it gets really hot. You can stick your finger in the soil and if it is moist down about two inches, they have enough water.
Is there a reason you left some of the root ball above the soil level? Usually that means a plant has roots above the soil that will not get enough water and die.
At this point, I would water these plants once a week and see how they do. There seems to be healthy new growth along the outside and you may lose a few more inside leaves before they get over their transplant shock and decide to live or die.
I would also get a soil test to see what you are dealing with and if there is a better match to your soil. You can and ask specific questions if you are concerned about the walnut tree. Here’s a publication with a list of qualified labs. – Rhonda Frick-Wright, OSU Extension Master Gardener
Thinning fruit can help avoid branch break off. Oregonian file photo. LC- The Oregonian
Q: What is the best way to support fruit tree branches that are heavy with fruit. We have semi-dwarf peach and apple trees that have a lot of fruit that are weighing down the branches. Besides thinning the fruit, which we have already done, what else can we do to support the branches? – Klamath County
A: Most research-based papers written on fruit trees discuss how to prune your trees to prevent long branches that could produce a lot of fruit thereby potentially breaking off the branches. There isn’t a lot of information on staking or keeping heavy branches up, but there is some. You might want to consider pruning back the longest branches next winter.
You mentioned you have already thinned the trees. But it is recommended to have one fruit every 6 to 8 inches. You could thin again, although for most of us, it is hard to thin back so much fruit. If you don’t want to thin any more, you can stake up your heavy branches.
Use wood or metal long poles or posts and angle them from the ground into the heavy branches of the tree. Ideally, these could have a groove at the top that the branch fits into. In some orchards, they use posts and a wire system to create a trellis to support the heavy branches. You could also use rope or the like to hold the branches toward the trunk of the tree. This assumes a strong trunk.
You could rope a left branch towards the truck and rope a right branch with the same rope towards the trunk of the tree. Based on where your trees are, you may have to get inventive to prop up the heaviest branches if you don’t want to thin more, — Mary Desisto, OSU Extension Master Gardener
Watching leaves for signs of drooping or curling can help show when garden plants need more water.Rosemarie Stein/staff
Q: How do I best monitor watering my fruits and veggies in raised beds and in the ground? I have tomatoes and squash, as well as slower food like carrots, beets and melons. My second zucchini was getting soft and hollow at the end. – Clackamas County
A: Many people water too much so your worry about your zucchini is probably unfounded. Your zucchini may have not been well pollinated, which often makes them small and soft, and they will dry up or rot before making a squash. The next blossom will hopefully do better.
The way to tell if your plants are getting enough water is to watch them and look for signs of drying such as curling leaves, drooping or withering. The goal is to water deeply but less frequently, allowing the plants to develop deep roots. This will help them cope with hot days and adjust to whatever soil type you have.
Here is a great booklet on gardening, “Growing Your Own,” with a section on watering gardens, but generally plants with deep roots need a thorough watering every five to seven days in hot weather. Shallow rooted crops (lettuce, carrots, green beans, beets) need a thorough soaking and then a drying out time so the roots can breathe. Deeper rooted plants (corn, tomatoes, asparagus) need less frequent water but more of it to get down deeper.
In short, watch the plants themselves, give them enough water to keep them happy and don’t drown the roots by giving them too much or too frequent soakings. – Rhonda Frick-Wright, OSU Extension Master Gardener
Is this damage from hail?OSU Extension Service
Q: All of a sudden, leaves on our fava bean, pea and cucumber plants all have white-yellow spots, lines and/or bruises, along with torn leaves and holes. On June 18 we had an intense hailstorm (which even left ice on the ground overnight in some spots)! I left town the next day and didn’t look carefully at anything in the garden again until today (June 26).
Surely some of the physical damage is the hail, and it’s been pretty hot since the storm too, but does that explain all of it? Looking at various pests/diseases, mosaic virus seemed like it could be an explanation. – Multnomah
A: Yes, it’s hail. It will be interesting to see if new growth, which should be coming soon, will be able to rise above the stress the hailstorm seems to have caused your plants. If you start to see browning or gray leaves, you might want to remove those, but I don’t think there is anything else to do right now except wait and see how the plants recover.
Give them water in this heat and shade if it gets really hot and I think they will eventually be fine.
