Culture: A Wine Lover’s Guide to Umbria

Umbria is a treasure hidden in plain sight— but it’s there, waiting. Bordering Tuscany, Lazio and Le Marche, this part of Italy rewards travelers with space to breathe and plenty of enticements. While many people encounter Umbria on the train from Rome to Florence, there is much to discover when traveling off the main lines.

Called “The Green Heart of Italy,” the region is a wanderluster’s dream. With a mild climate and plenty of water, generations of families have produced crops such as wine grapes, olives and cereals. The view, as seen from the vantage point of gently rolling landscapes or stony hill towns, is a mix of cultivated farmland and lush natural vegetation.

Heaven for History Buffs

There is a copious amount of history in Central Italy, so it may seem near impossible to list all the treasures that await in Umbria. But many travelers get hooked while visiting Orvieto and its stunning Duomo, or cathedral. While the old hilltop town perched on volcanic stone is beautiful, there are hidden historical treasures beneath the city. A complicated network of underground caves reveals Etruscan life, with antiquities that demonstrate their ancient existence.

Umbria is also home to some of the most treasured devotional sites of the Christian world. The Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi, a UNESCO Heritage Site dating back to 1228, features two hillside churches, priceless frescoes and a crypt where the remains of the saint are interred. The charming town of Cascia is the site of the Basilica of Santa Rita da Cascia, appealing to pilgrims who come to witness her final resting place.

There’s also a slice of fictional history in Umbria. Narni, which inspired the name for C.S. Lewis’s The Chronicles of Narnia, features a medieval center with ancient Roman heritage.

For visitors attracted to the history of viticulture, the MUVIT Wine Museum of Torgiano, supported by the Lungarotti Foundation, holds centuries of artifacts that illustrate how wine was made and used in Umbria. Another key stop is Montefalco, the heartland of Sagrantino: an ideal spot to stay while in Umbria, where visitors wake to the sound of church bells and the circular piazza bustles during busy seasons with families, foodies and friends in search of medieval and Renaissance footprints— and wine.

Soak in the Wine Culture

Many of the wine estates in Umbria welcome visitors and offer a range of grapes and styles, from native varieties tied to the centurieslong history of the region to international favorites in tasty blends. There are four main growing regions: Orvieto, Torgiano, Trasimeno and Montefalco. To see them all, rent a car or hire a driver—Shuttle Perugia is a trusted source. Many of the producers are located on small, rural farms, and part of the experience is exploring the countryside.

The hometown white wine grape is Grechetto, which boasts two exceptional distinctions: Grechetto di Orvieto and Grechetto di Todi. Orvieto DOC is one of the most abundant wines, crafted with Grechetto and Trebbiano Toscano. For an exquisite tasting experience, book a visit, cooking class or overnight stay at the bucolic, yet refined, Decugnano dei Barbi estate. Another perfect spot to taste Orvieto wines is Argillae, where a tour of the winery reveals a cellar that is painted in reminiscence of the cathedral’s black and white stripes. Umbria also treasures the Trebbiano Spoletino variety, which is grown only in Umbria. Reserve a tasting at Fongoli to experience this grape and others, while also taking in the vineyard view and learning about the Umbrian winemaking traditions.

Umbria brings its A game to the region’s notable red grape variety, Montefalco Sagrantino. This is one of the world’s most tannic wines. Recognized for its remarkable aging potential, it packs thickskinned intensity. For a truly captivating way to experience Sagrantino, book a visit at Tabarrini, where modern innovations bring this ancient flavor to life in a fresh way. Also try Montefalco Rosso, a blend of Sagrantino and Sangiovese (also abundant in Umbria), along with at least one additional red grape variety (often Merlot).

For the Food Aficionados

A haven for heirloom cuisine, the focus here is on natural ingredients. Consider an agriturismo stay, such as at Pucciarella, to get close to the land and the people behind your meals. If that’s not in the cards, fine restaurants all over the region treat diners to local and seasonal flavors.

Umbrian olive oil enjoys an excellent reputation and has earned an official origin label: Umbria PDO, which can include one of the following place names: Colli AssisiSpoleto, Colli Martani, Colli Amerini, Colli del Trasimeno or Colli Orvietani. Many wine producers also grow and bottle olive oil, and restaurants serve this hyper-local product made by neighbors.

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Another key to Umbrian cuisine is truffles, and the forested Valnerina Valley is one of the finest spots to discover them. It’s possible to arrange a trip into the woods with a skilled truffle hunter and their dogs and witness the excitement of uncovering a prized truffle. Any trattoria in this area will offer dishes, such as bruschetta and pasta, enhanced with the rich profile of all-natural truffles. Visitors can also pop into A.R. Tartufi in Arrone, a maker of truffle products such as sauces and oils, and a purveyor of fresh truffles.

Discerning diners will certainly be delighted with the range of heritage products made on small farms around the area. Pork—such as the carefully butchered cuts in the medieval town of Norcia, or abundant wild boar (which often terrorize the vineyards)—is a mainstay of the region. Ancient legumes and cereals also deserve attention, as more growers are cultivating them and preserving the past in turn. Madrevite, Carini, and Paolo Bea are three wine producers that are also regarded as cultivators of authentic Umbrian farm products.

Get Outside

For adventure lovers, nature enthusiasts and those seeking peace in the outdoors, Umbria is the place. There are marked trails throughout the region, and a rail-to-trail route from Spoleto to Sant’Anatolia di Narco presents an active way to experience the diversity of the landscape.

In the lush Valnerina Valley, discover Cascata delle Marmore, one of Europe’s tallest waterfalls, which was originally created by the Romans. Even from the car, the scenic Valnerina road (SP209) proves to be a breathtaking route weaving through tiny towns and dark forests.

There are also several opportunities for water activities, including kayaking, canoeing and river rafting. Lake Trasimeno, while quite shallow, is filled with life and serves as a sanctuary for species such as wild ducks, cormorants, kites and kingfishers. Ringed with interesting villages such as Castiglione del Lago, this lake attracts anglers, swimmers and bird watchers. For another peaceful escape, explore Piediluco Lake—with a beauty that has inspired artists for centuries, this serene space is also a spot for fishing and boating. But wherever you look, you’ll find Italy’s green, green heart.

This article originally appeared in the November 2023 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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Last Updated: October 2, 2023