San Miguel de Allende has attracted a sizable community of artists and expats since the mid-20th century, but only in recent years has this high-altitude UNESCO World Heritage-designated city in Mexico’s Bajio highlands become a culinary destination. Established in 1542 as a silver mining hub, San Miguel has retained its colonial grandeur with its steep, cobblestone streets and ornate Spanish Baroque and neo-Gothic architecture, not to mention numerous cultural celebrations throughout the year.
San Miguel’s diverse array of dining and drinking options run the gamut from fine dining and street food to mezcalerias, cocktail bars and cantinas; some of the most memorable highlight indigenous ingredients and local terroir with a palpable sense of pride. There’s also a small but growing emphasis on pre-Columbian beverages at some bars and restaurants.
Of course, agave spirits—particularly mezcal—reign supreme in San Miguel. Certainly, allow time for a tequila tasting at Casa Dragones; while the tequila is distilled in Jalisco, the brand was founded in San Miguel in 2009 by Bertha González Nieves, Mexico’s first female maestra tequilera, and MTV creator Robert W. Pittman. Dragones’ six-seat, obsidian-tiled tasting room is located in Dôce 18 Concept House, a design-forward public market housed in a historic 18th century building.
Guanajuato has also been gaining traction as Mexico’s up-and-coming wine region, notable for low-intervention releases as well as varietals like Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc. Vines were introduced in the 16th century by Spaniards, but winemaking was eventually banned for a period because it competed with the European market. Today, Guanajuato has 43 vineyards, some of which are a short cab ride from San Miguel.
Despite its legion of watering holes, San Miguel’s weekday vibe is decidedly sleepy. That changes on the weekends, when visiting capitalino (Mexico City residents) arrive in droves to eat, imbibe and enjoy the small-town atmosphere. There may not be any Michelin stars here (yet), but when it drinking culture, San Miguel holds its own. Here are the must-try sips, snacks and places to stay while you’re in town.
Aguamiel at Bekeb
Located on the rooftop of Casa Hoyos, a 17th-century-residence-turned-boutique-hotel, Bekeb—a 50 Best Discovery pick and San Miguel’s first cocktail bar—affords panoramic views of the city. But it’s the meticulously crafted cocktails, designed by owner and internationally acclaimed bartender Fabiola Padilla, that make this a must-visit. (Reservations required, note that sunset is prime time.)
Padilla, a native of Jalisco, celebrates her cultural heritage and the region’s native plants to spectacular effect, as evidenced in drinks like the Aguamiel, made with pox (an indigenous ceremonial spirit made of corn, wheat and/or sugar cane), cacao liqueur, coconut extract, cacao foam and pulque. The last is fermented in-house from fresh aguamiel, the sap from maguey agave, sourced from Padilla’s uncle’s nearby ranch.
There’s also an abbreviated menu of salty, spicy and savory snacks, including like patatas bravas with salsa roja, tacos and habanero-spiked esquites, or corn salad. Bonus: If you’re interested in a sweet treat, try the Polén, which is like a liquid Creamsicle, made with Mexican gin, Italicus bergamot liqueur, cream, citrus, bee pollen and mesquite-fermented varaduz blossom honey from Padilla’s father’s ranch in the Jaliscan highlands.
Ancestral Beverages at La Mezcaleria
As the name suggests, mezcal is the specialty here. The tightly curated menu features small-batch mezcals made from wild agaves, with an emphasis on ancestral or artisanal production methods including fermentation in leather. The rotating menu also includes one-offs like a delightfully herbaceous cupreata mezcal from Coyuca de Benitez in the state of Guerrero that has been infused with cannabis. You’ll also find Mexican spirits like wild corn-distilled pox, raicilla, bacanora and sotol. The margaritas are also sure to hit (cucumber-coriander, güero chile and ginger-mint are standouts).
But what really makes La Mezcaleria so special is its selection of ancestral beverages. The menu boasts several sacred fermented drinks that are still consumed as medicinals, including chocolatey tascalate, made from roasted masa, cacao, ground pine nuts, achiote, vanilla and piloncillo, as well as yeasty, fizzy pulque sourced from nearby communities. These pulques come in a variety of house-made flavors, known as curados, such as banana-peanut and pineapple-ginger. There are even a handful of corn-based pre-Hispanic drinks like pinole, pozol and tejate.
No matter which liquid refreshment you choose, make sure to save room for Oaxaca-born co-owner and chef Mario Iribe Benitez’s soulful small plates like tlayudas with huitlacoche and pork belly with mole negro. Private mezcal tastings are also available by reservation.
Low-Intervention Mexican Wines at Xoler
San Miguel’s first wine bar opened in 2022 in a carefully preserved, 19th–century former pharmacy. With its rough-hewn rock and exposed brick walls, Xoler has an appealing, cellar-like ambiance offset by floor-to-ceiling casement windows that open to the open to the street. The focus here is low-intervention wine from Mexico and beyond.
It’s hard to go wrong with anything on the well-curated list. But, if you’re seeking one glass that epitomizes the Bajio wine region, order Cava Garambullo’s Orange Rover 2021. The fresh, well-balanced Chardonnay-Albariño blend is redolent of citrus and stone fruit with a hint of funk.
Ginger-Tamarind Margarita at El Manantial
When happy hour hits, skip the touristy spots surrounding El Jardin, San Miguel’s main plaza, and head up the hill to this 104-year-old cantina. Adorned with vibrant tiles and black and white mural-covered walls, this dimly lit bar is always reliably packed with locals.
If the walk leaves you a bit worse for wear (those cobblestones are tough to navigate, especially at altitude), the chile salt-rimmed ginger-tamarind margarita and some seafood tostadas are sure to revive you. The cocktails here aren’t fancy, but they’re strong and, in some cases, super-sized, like the Paloma served in a pint glass.
It’s tough to get a seat during peak hours, but if you’re able to nab one at the dark wooden bar, you’ll likely find yourself in a fascinating conversation with any number of local characters.
The Olivia Cocktail at The Room
Wander through the narrow, weathered wooden doors of The Room and it’s like you’ve been teleported to another dimension—one with moody lighting, intimate seating and colorful, Moorish-paneled walls.
This lively little mezcaleria specializes in a rotating list of small-batch spirits that adhere to artisanal and ancestral production methods, but if flights aren’t your thing, there’s also an abbreviated list of thoughtful cocktails like the Olivia. Essentially a crisp riff on a martini, the cocktail is made with mezcal-based gin, dry vermouth, the corn-based liqueur Nixta Licor de Elote and olive oil. Private tastings are offered with reservation.
Where to Stay: The Top San Miguel de Allende Hotels
Want the bells and whistles of a luxury hotel (spa, pet concierge, business center, pool, tennis courts, kid’s programming, etc.) with the intimacy of a boutique property? This 16th-century colonial estate is it, boasting 67 airy rooms and residences with modern colonial decor.
But what sets a stay here apart is the brand’s innovative PlaceMaker Program. This partnership with local artists, designers, makers and holistic practitioners enables guests to enjoy immersive cultural experiences including mezcal and Mexican wine tastings or a tour of Vía Orgánica farm, followed by a cooking class featuring produce harvested on-site. For something different, hop on a horse and hit San Miguel’s liveliest watering holes on the Canteen Tour. Rooms start at $496 per night.
Founded as an “intimate collaboration between four women-led brands rooted in Mexico,” which includes a designer, silversmith, clothier and perfumer, this guesthouse and retail space reflects a sense of place with style. The three rooms boast terracotta floors, exposed beams, handwoven textiles, stucco walls and high-desert-inspired color palettes. The gorgeously appointed rooftop terrace sets it over the top. Rates start from $325 per night.
This enchanting, multi-story hacienda is located in a tranquil residential neighborhood just outside of the Centro. It boasts an expansive garden and each of the 11 rooms is completely unique. Some have private terraces or terracotta tile floors, while others feature stone walls, exposed beams, fireplaces or kitchenettes. Pets are welcome and the room rates are relatively affordable, from $100 a night.
Published: March 28, 2024
