Bourgogne region is known for producing Grand Cru and Premier Cru wines; however, according to Darius Allyn MS, the region has a lot more to offer. Allyn spoke to db Asia on how he sees the tremendous value of some lesser-known Bourgogne wines.
Q: Can you describe your impression of Bourgogne wines in three words?
A: Precise, memorable, sensory.
Q: Can you share a memorable experience in Bourgogne?
A: Bourgogne wine is very much an interpersonal experience. The wines portray a very specific identity and there is always something a little different for everyone. In the early 1990s, I did a harvest in Bourgogne for Albert Morot. When I was there, I had the chance to meet Hubert de Montille, one of the legendary winemakers from the region – that was an extraordinary experience. I have always loved and praised his wine.
Q: Do you think Bourgogne wines are popular in the Hong Kong market?
A:Premium wines of the region are popular by a certain sector in Hong Kong market. What is not popular yet is the entry level products such as the Régionale appellations wines. However, this is a perfect opportunity for younger drinking generation to get introduced to these wines at a more affordable price point.
Q: Have you observed any misconceptions towards Bourgogne wines in Hong Kong?
A: Many consumers look at Bourgogne wine as a showpiece to impress others, if they can afford a higher price point of wine, which I think is unfortunate as this is not what Bourgogne is about. Once you visit the region, you’d realise it has really a lot more to offer. Another thing that happens quite often in Hong Kong is that many consumers, who can afford higher end Bourgogne, usually drink the wines far too young or late. They miss the best window of enjoying the wine.
Q: Speaking of the lesser-known Bourgogne appellations, can you share a few favourites with us?
A: I love appellations such as Mercurey and Givry. I think the wines are very undervalued yet show wonderful freshness and distinctions. Further north, I love Chablis as everyone does, but also there are other hidden gems around the region, such as Saint-Bris for the Sauvignon Blanc. There are some other subtle villages around the area (db Asia: for example Irancy and Vézelay) that are equally profound and unique.
Q: What is your advice for people who wish to explore more about Bourgogne wines?
A: Recently I received a lot of positive feedbacks from local drinkers on my recommendation of pairing traditional Bourgogne dishes and wine together, rather than just having the wine alone. For instance, I recommend the pairing a Bourgogne traditional quail dish to go with a Bourgogne appellation wine. This serves as a good opportunity for consumers to enjoy the traditional experience for the region, and from there they can get drawn in more.
Q: How would you enjoy Bourgogne wines usually? How well can they pair with local food?
A: A lot of people used to think Régionale Bourgogne appellations are of entry level and can’t be enjoyed alone, but this is a misconception – you can totally enjoy the wine on its own. In my experience, some of them even if they have a bit of age, can still show a beautiful, alive and electric profile. With food, lately I tried the pairing of local eggplant and minced pork in clay pot with Aloxe-Corton and the pairing was really spot on. The wine really brought out the earthiness of the eggplant and other charming flavours such as savoury, sweet, sour and umami. There is a synergy for sure, and that was enhancing, lifting and inspiring.
To learn more about Darius Allyn MS’s personal preference on the lesser-known appellations of Bourgogne, check out the below video: